Royal Tokaji Wine Co, Tokaj 6 Puttonyos Aszú Gold Label, 2017 (500ml) champagne cracks now around two decades old

now around two decades old and drinking in its tertiary window

A fifth-growth Pauillac that has quietly become one of the appellation's best arguments for looking past the famous names

bottled with a deliberately light

fiercely citric white native to Breganze in the Veneto foothills

saline tension

Royal Tokaji Wine Co, Tokaj 6 Puttonyos Aszú Gold Label, 2017 (500ml) champagne cracks now around two decades oldAsz is among the most labor intensive wines on earth. Pickers move through the vineyard berry by berry rather than bunch by bunch, taking only the grapes that botrytis has shriveled into raisins; those asz berries are then macerated into a base wine and the result is aged at length in barrel. Six puttonyos sits at the top of the classic scale the richest and sweetest expression of the method. Royal Tokaji has been the loudest argument for the region's